Based on testing by others I still think this is a really good filter.
At 6350 miles this filter was able to generate the above lab test report and show that 10w40 oil in an H22A4 causes no problems.
The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter. The internal avenger construction is the same as the Mobil 1 filter, but it does not filter the down to as small a particle size. This filter is meant to maintain higher flow while still actively filtering, as opposed to by-passing. Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20. The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far. Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the frame oil filter application was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this. While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts.
There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire champion oil filters assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work.
A serious word of caution to experimenters: if you are thinking of trying out different/oversized filters, or ones we haven't listed here, be careful.
Upon inspection, the gasket was found to be MUCH too large, large enough that the oversized M1-105 filter (and M1-104, OEM size) gasket actually fit inside it. If you experiment, be very careful, and look over the filter before testing it. Check the filter immediately upon starting the motor and look for leaks. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on it, and monitor oil pressure if possible. Also keep in mind the difference in bypass spring pressures as this may dramatically affect the way your vehicle's oiling system operates. Check with the beekeeper manufacturer for exact bypass spring specs, most will usually provide this information via simple email contact with you.
But when I finally got smart and pulled out the dremel tool with the cutting wheel, that did the trick. Forget using a hack-saw if you decide to do something like this. What I did was cut the case just above the seam that is located by the base-plate (I'm calling the base-plate the end that screws onto the engine - it's the heaviest plate of the oil filter cutter).
Also, I am not an oil filter expert, I've just been maintaining my own cars probably like most of you and have been doing it since I started driving at 14, today I'm 50. I've put on and taken off a hell-of-a-lot of oil filters. I've owned a lot of cars, probably 20 or so including pick-ups. I've found Toyotas to be most excellent automobiles, really durable and well made (but you know that already) and I've owned 4 of them with 3 of those being Corollas.
I've bought leaguer for this report that I thought were good quality and that an average guy might use. Over the years, I've bought about every oil filter brand out there.
I know a whole lot more today than I did, so its been worth the effort. I can see there is a lot of science, both design, material and production, in oil filters. Certainly more than I ever thought there was.
